Days 40 and 41: Budva to Bar, then to Shkodër, Albania

Yesterday, I started my ride from Budva at the usual time of 5:30 AM. I cycled on the main road most of the time and the occasional side roads. At one point, I had to push my bike up a steep hill with switchbacks. The hill was so steep that I had to stop and rest on every turn so my calves can get a break. Even though the journey was only 23.5 miles to Bar, it took me three hours to get to Sova Smart House hostel.

I was able to self check-in, but I still had to wait for the hostel manager to show up so I can pay. As I was waiting, another guest showed up. Her name is Kristen and she’s a 36 years old makeup artist from California. We hit it off right away.

Kristen loves hiking and just spent ten days hiking the Peaks of Balkans trail that connects Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. She is also financially independent, but doesn’t realize it yet. We ended up spending the rest of the day together going to the beachside, visiting the Church of St. John Vladimir, and eating lunch.

Talking to her is like talking to a female version of myself. We both feel traveling is our main goal in life and being independent is very important for both of us. Of all the people I met during my travels we have the most in common. I had a blast hanging out with her for a day.

This morning, I started my ride at 5:20 and rode up one more big but gradual hill before coming into Albania. The border crossing was much better this time when the agent waved me to the front of a line of cars so I got processed faster.

I arrived in the city of Shkodër at 9 AM after 32 miles of riding. I’ll be staying at the most famous Warmshowers hosts’ place for tonight. They are an American couple who chose to retire in Albania. They are Chuck and Susan.

Upon entering their apartment, I saw the famous wall of palm prints of all the cyclists who had stayed here. Then I was greeted by Susan, Chuck’s wife. Over a glass of iced water, Chuck and I chatted about what to expect while stay at their place. I learned that him and Susan has hosted almost 1600 cyclists in the past seven years. That’s just amazing!

For lunch, I ate at Chuck and Susan’s favorite restaurant, Puri. I ordered the Father’s Rice meal and it was THE meal for a long distance cyclist, with rice, meat, beans, and salad.

I’m now back at Chuck and Susan’s apartment. There will be three more cyclists coming in today. It’ll be a very lively group of people here for the night.

I plan to stay in Albania for a month, but I don’t know how many days I want to stay in Shkodër and where. I’ll decide on that soon.

Coming out of Budva

I think this is called Saint Stephen according to Google Maps.

Looking back

At the top of a hill, looking at more hills

Finally, civilization

Statue of a local artist who looks like is giving the middle finger.

King Nikola's Palace

Church of St. John Vladimir

Inside the church

Every wall is covered in paintings

Part of the beach in Bar

Sunset over the mountain

Kristen

The Old Olive Tree that's over 2000 years old

On top of yet another hill

Leaving Montenegro

One of several mosques that I passed by

What is this thing in the middle of a roundabout in Shkodër?

Just some of the palm prints at Chuck and Susan's place

Father's Rice for lunch at Puri

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