Day 34: Šibenik to Trogir

After waking up this morning, I had to decide on today’s route to Trogir from Šibenik. There were two options: one is to follow the 32 mile EuroVelo route that partially goes along the coast with many small hills, the other is a 27 mile route that goes inland and slowly climbs a big hill. I chose the second route, thinking that the climb won’t be that bad and I’ll have a good downhill to ride into Trogir.

Sure enough, I kicked myself as I slowly rode up the hill at 5-6 miles per hour. The hill had an incline for about 9 miles. The only good thing about it was the tarmac and there weren’t too many cars early in the morning.

I only rode downhill for a short distance before the route turned into a trail with loose stones. When I saw how steep the downhill was I realized that there was no safe way to ride it with my bike. I had to walk my bicycle carefully while holding both brake levers. What’s worse was the cliff on my right side. I imagined the worst thing happening, which is somehow my bike will slip and fall down the cliff. That’ll be the end of my bike tour for sure.

As I slowly and carefully guided my bike down the gravel hill I wish I had picked the first route. There was a reason that the people behind EuroVelo chose that particular route rather than this shorter one from Organic Maps.

I took several breaks on the path by leaning my bike down on the ground since the kickstand was useless on a steep decline. The view of Trogir was the only good thing about this trail. But there were times when I wanted to throw my bike down the cliff out of frustration so that I didn’t have to suffer on this hill anymore. In the end, my mental strength persevered and my fingers were so sore from holding the brake levers.

The last bit of the trail was a paved road on a residential street. I cycled down the hill and was so worried that my brakes’ stopping power won’t be enough to stop my bike. At the very bottom of the hill when the street came to an intersection with the main road I had to use my feet to stop my bike from going any farther.

That hill was torture, physically and mentally, and I was so glad that I came down it safely. This experience will be inked in my memory for a long time as one of the worst and scariest days of my bike tours. Up there with Hayters Gap in Virginia and the rainy day in Austria.

When I arrived at Hostel Marina Trogir my shirt was soaked with sweat and white salt stains. The owner was able to check me in early and I relaxed in the common area.

Around noon, I had some Thai food in Trogir before exploring the historic old town that’s on an island.

There were only two attractions that were worth seeing, St. Lawrence’s Cathedral and Kamerlengo Castle. I paid the entrance fees with a student discount since I carried my old university ID in my wallet. It works in my advantage when I look ten years younger. I was able to enjoy great panoramic views of the town from top of the bell tower and on top of the castle.

I came back to the hostel soon after and took a shower. I might walk more around the nearby neighborhood then get dinner. Tomorrow, I might ride the 17 miles to Split or take the ferry there if I decide to sleep in. I’ll have to see how I feel. I’m just glad that I got over today’s challenging ride.

The wind turbines are built on the top the hills.

Near the top of the hill after 9 miles of incline

This is the downhill with the trail of loose stones and the cliff on the side.

At least the view is good.

View of the Kamerlengo Castle from the dorm window

Trogirska Kruna

St. Lawrence’s Cathedral

St. Lawrence’s Cathedral from the market square

Inside the cathedral

The bells at the bell tower

View of Trogir from the bell tower

Kamerlengo Castle

At the top of the tower

View from the castle tower

Another view of Trogir from the castle tower

Walking on the castle wall

Castle tower from below

Looking at the hill that I had to walk down with my bike.

On the bank of Trogir

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