Days 32 and 33: Murrells Inlet to Honey Hill Recreation Area, then to Charleston

Yesterday morning, I woke up from my slumber once again. David and Janet were already up. While Janet went for a morning run, David made omelettes with mushrooms and onions. After this breakfast, I got everything mounted on my bike and bid farewell to David and Janet.

I used the Komoot app and took the residential roads. Eventually, it led me to a bike path, which I liked. reminded me a lot of the Mount Vernon bike path near Washington, DC. I did have to ride on route 17 again, as it runs all the way to Savannah and beyond. There was the rumble strip, but the road had a wide enough shoulder.

Bike path

The rumble strip on route 17

During a bridge crossing into Georgetown, I saw a pair of long distance cyclists riding the other direction. It was hard for us to stop and chat over the busy road, but they seemed to be older.

The bridge to Georgetown

I rode about 28 miles to downtown Georgetown. The first thing I did was stopping at the visitor’s center to use the restroom. When I came out, an older man named Dale asked about my journey. As it turns out, Dale is sailing on a boat to Florida with three other people. The ship’s propeller broke and it’s getting fixed in town. Sailing a boat sounded like a great adventure! Though, I would never do it since I’m a poor swimmer.

Georgetown

I had three tacos at Taqueria El Mariachi for an early lunch at 10:30. Then I decided to cycle back one block to have a coffee ice cream cone at Sweeties. I needed my daily ice cream fix!

Tacos

And ice cream!

As I continued to follow Komoot and tried to avoid route 17, I rode on a local road with few cars. When the route indicated a right turn on a road to get back on 17, I saw the road was closed and it was a dirt road that would not be good for my bike. The detour was longer, but since I started the ride early today and made good distance I decided to cycle on.

Road closed

There’s something zen about taking a quiet detour road since I only saw three cars in a five mile stretch. I enjoyed the smooth road and the shade casted by the tall trees.

Zen and the art of cycling

Soon, I was on 17 again. I saw another pair of touring cyclists going the opposite direction. Again, we didn’t stop to chat. I think we were too tired. After another 28 miles or so from Georgetown, I arrived in McClellanville.

McClellanville is an even smaller town than Georgetown. After going up and down on Pinckney Street, I decided to have a late lunch at T W Graham and Co at 2 PM. An older couple came out from the restaurant just as I was about to walk in. They told me this restaurant was in a TV show. Now I have to try it.

I had the seared tuna salad that was really good. The waitress asked about my travels and she was impressed by how far I’ve gone on my bike. I was either going to camp in McClellanville or ride another 50 miles to Charleston. If I do the latter, then I would have ridden over 100 miles in one day, but I would be getting into Charleston at dusk. I decided to inquire about a place to camp and maybe take a shower.

The waitress’ name is Sally. She invited me to take a shower at her house not too far down the road, then I can ride my bike to one of two campsites not too far away. I was surprised to be offered a shower by a stranger and I didn’t want to camp without a shower so I accepted the arrangement.

I can attest everything on here is true.

After waiting for Sally to finish her work at the restaurant, I cycled to her house. She arrived at about the same time in her car. I took a refreshing shower, as showers usually are. Sally’s sister, Elizabeth, stopped by with her daughter before she had to drop off her daughter off at soccer practice.

Sally was interested in my astrological sign and she went online to see what the universe had to say about me. I don’t really believe in astrology and I think it’s more playful than anything else.

Soon, Sally’s husband, Glenn, came back from work. Glenn had designed and built the house. He and Sally also played an original song on guitar and drum for me. I took the opportunity to play a few guitar songs myself as well. Sally insisted that I should have a good bug spray and the bug repellent wipes that I brought are not enough, so she gave me a bug spray that contained 98% deet.

I tried to convince Glenn to sign up for Warmshowers.org so he and Sally can host cyclists. I told them that I could be their first one. I guess there was some hesitation and a sign that they didn’t seem to extend the invitation for me to stay overnight. So at a little after 6 PM, I decided to say my goodbyes and cycle to the Honey Hill Recreation Area that’s ten miles north of McClellanville. I rode a total of 67 miles that day.

Elizabeth, Sally, and Glenn

It was close to sunset when I got to the campsite. I asked my campsite neighbor, Paul, if there’s any water in the area. He told me the pump is broken and there’s no water. Luckily, Sally had refilled both of my water bottles at the restaurant, but after making a bag of ramen I used up 3/4 of a bottle. Paul offered me some water later. I politely refused because I’m a bit of a germaphobe.

While I was setting up my tent and cooking ramen, I saw some mosquitoes. I immediately sprayed some bug repellent that Sally gave me just a while ago. Unfortunately, those bloodsuckers bit me multiple times on my back through my shirt!

After eating the ramen, I quickly got into my tent and tried to sleep. I thought about asking Sally’s sister, Elizabeth, to see if I can stay at her house since she lives very close to this campsite, but my phone didn’t receive any signal. There goes that idea.

My campsite for the night

I was awaken a couple of times during the night when a cat walked by my tent and a truck drove into the campsite. I have yet to get a good night sleep while camping.

This morning, I was awakened at dawn by the birds. I packed everything and hit the road around 7 AM. The only app that worked without cell signal is maps.me, so I used it to navigate.

Roadside attraction

With only one bottle of water and no breakfast, I cycled 25 miles until I saw a Spinx gas station convenience store in Wando. I pulled over immediately and filled up my water bottles at the soda machine. I also bought a to-go bag of chicken and potato wedges, then I ate the whole thing. After charging up my phone a bit, I was ready to roll for the rest of today’s journey.

When the route on maps.me merged with the East Coast Greenway, I followed the East Coast Greenway route even though it took me further south to Isle of Palms then Sullivan’s Island. The bridge to get to Isle and Palms was so long that I thought about turning back midway, but my perseverance kicked in.

And the possible did occur

At Isle of Palms, I had an omelette and grits for lunch at the Acme Lowcountry Kitchen before cycling to Sullivan’s Island to get an ice cream cone at Republic Ice Cream. I even cycled to the Sullivan’s Island Lighthouse and Fort Moultrie National Historical Park just for the heck of it.

A large mansion is under construction.

Sullivan’s Island Lighthouse

After visiting these place, I rode through Mount Pleasant and crossed one last bridge, the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, into Charleston. I was so glad that there was a bike path on the bridge.

Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge to Charleston

Once in Charleston, I cycled to the southern most tip of the town, then rode to the Notso Hostel on Spring Street.

The scenic Charleston

I arrived around 3 PM after riding a total of 59.4 miles. The receptionist told me that they couldn’t do a same day reservation. I told her that I will stay for two nights since tomorrow will rain, then she agreed to booked me.

After I settled in the dorm room, I took a shower. I looked at my back and counted over a dozen mosquito bites from the night before. That's the most I've gotten in one day.

For dinner, I walked to the Bon Banh Mi Southeast Asian Kitchen that’s on the same block as the hostel to get a pork banh mi. I also bought two Clif bars, a bag of ramen, and a bag of Skittles from Charlie’s Grocery to restock on my snacks. I ate the Skittles soon after since I was craving some sugar.

I’m currently at the hostel and will go to sleep soon. Not sure what I’ll do in Charleston since there will be thunderstorm tomorrow.